Forced rhubarb season is upon us. Regulars will know my obsession with rhubarb so we don’t need to go over it again. Suffice to say that every year, when the thin, pink stems arrive in the shops I am never short of ideas. This week: hazelnut (though it could just as easily have been walnut) and rhubarb cake...
2020-02-14T13:49:42+00:00 February 14th, 2020|
Poor sprouts. They really need to sack their PR team. Spooned reluctantly on to our Christmas plate (“I’ll have one but that’s it”), we almost revel in the ritual of loathing them. But that, I think, is our failure, not the sprouts’. The problem is that we don’t cook them properly, or we cook them at all...
2020-02-21T14:59:39+00:00 December 13th, 2019|
Christmas is brassica season, harvest time for the cabbage growers. The time of year to marvel at the kale which just keeps growing in all weathers; to gaze in wonder at the red cabbage, gigantic purple bowling balls that were nothing more than a palm-full of seeds a few months ago;...
2019-12-06T17:19:57+00:00 December 6th, 2019|
Quiche is in my blood. It is my culinary inheritance. My mother is a champion quiche-maker, she has a cup and everything. And yet I rarely make one. Because quiche is a faff. Instead, I often turn to filo pastry: Far less technical, but delicious when filled with autumn's finest harvests - squash, kale and mushrooms....
2019-11-22T09:58:46+00:00 November 22nd, 2019|
If you have a greenhouse you will currently, most likely, find yourself besieged by chillies. The cold nights will have forced you to uproot plants like chillies, and bring in what harvest you can. Well, there is relief for the chilli-swamped amongst us: harissa. Once you have a pot nestling in the fridge you will find all sorts of uses for it...
2019-11-14T13:32:19+00:00 November 14th, 2019|
Last year a friend offered me some of her grape glut and I was needlessly restrained in my pickings. This year when the grape glut call came once again I returned with none of my English-restraint. Some go in crunchy autumn salad with chicken and chicory. The rest, I discover are terrific for no-churn ice-cream…
2019-10-18T08:01:21+00:00 October 18th, 2019|
Nature flicked the switch on Autumn this week. The wind, the rain, the mud, the half light have all been turned on and turned up. This is all the excuse I need for my latest addiction – creamed corn. Today, paired with mushrooms, crispy chilli kale and garlic and lemon breadcrumbs – best eaten whilst wearing your favourite woolens.
2019-10-11T14:47:30+00:00 October 11th, 2019|
When the nights draw in, my mind turns to soup. Tomato soup. Perhaps because it is, to me, the cure for all ills. As a child, a tin of Heinz tomato soup was like penicillin: it could remedy almost any ailment from a grazed knee to a chill caught after a reckless trip in a rowing boat during a rainstorm...
2019-10-04T14:27:48+00:00 October 4th, 2019|